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  .The classifications of the fabrics in China

The fabrics are classified as the plane-fabrics and the figured-fabrics. The fabrics whose surfaces are plain and neat are called the plane-fabrics, such as the surah. The figured-fabrics are classified as the small pattern fabrics, such as the Dacron Crape, and the big pattern fabrics, such as the figured-charmeuse. The fabrics are also classified as the crude fabrics and the wrought fabrics.

The fabrics using the unessential silk thread are called the crude fabrics; using the essential silk thread, the wrought fabrics. The textile is the vertical silk thread weave(Warp and Woof) on the weaving machines. The thread weave parallel to the textile border is called Warp. The thread weave vertical to the textile border is called Woof.

The classification of the textiles: The classification firstly bases on the makeup, secondly the making techniques such as the crude fabrics, the wrought fabrics and the entwisted. In addition, based on the forms. The fabrics can be divided as the following fourteen sorts:

( 1 )Spun: the plain, neat textile with gauzy patterns or striations. Generally the warp and the woof are not entwisted. Such as the shioze colour striped.

( 2 )Crape: the crinkly textile such as the georgette and the crepe de chine. It is applied diversified techniques and constructions of the cloth( hard twisting and so on ).

( 3 )Silk: the tabby or diversification can be used on the shading. Or besides, some other constructions can be used, such as the figuring silk.

( 4 )Shusu: the figuring plane-fabrics applied the satin-figure totally or mostly as the shading. It feels smooth and silken, such as the figuring-charmeuse, the rayon satin.

( 5)Spun silk: the wrought figuring plane-fabrics applied the tabby or the layer tabby, with its warp and woof dyed white, homochromatic or multicolored. Its texture is gauzy; the surface is close, plane forceful, such as the taffeta.

( 6 )Ghatpot: the figuring plane-fabrics applied diversified damask as the shading. Distinct damask can be seen on its surface, such as the Batavia Silk and the Rayon Lining Twill.

( 7 ) Gross: the figuring plane-fabrics applied the gross construction as the leno, such as the Dacron Voile and the Hang-Gross.

( 8 )Gauze: the figuring plane-fabrics applied totally of mostly the reeled yarn construction on the shading or the pattern, such as the reed gauze, the cribriform gauze.

( 9 ) Raw silk: the figuring plane-fabrics applied the tabby or the reeled yarn with low density of its warp and woof. It feels ethereal and sheer.

(10) Ko-hemp Cloth: Usually its warp is finer and thicker than its woof. Its surface lacks for sheen. The transverse wale are distinct.

(11) Wool: It applied the crape or the float constructions as the shading. It looks lackluster, feels plump and thick.

(12) Flannelette: the figuring plane-fabrics totally of partly applied the cottony trichoma on the shading or the pattern such as the velvet.

(13)Silk and Cotton Fabric: the figuring plane-fabrics applied the thread as its warp, but the cotton yarn or some other low-grade material as its woof. It feels thick and crude such as the Plane-sick and cotton fabric.

(14)Brocade: the colorful jacquard with splendid fa?ade and exquisite design such as the baldachin. figured twills

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II.Following is the description of glossary of Silk fabrics used worldwide:

Brocade is a jacquard weave with an embossed effect and contrasting surfaces. Can also be woven with synthetic or man-made fibers.

Canton Crepe is a soft crepe woven fabric with small crosswise ribs. Similar to crepe de chine but heavier.

Charmeuse is a satin weave silk with a crepe back sometimes called crepe backed satin.
Chiffon is transparent soft and light silk. Can also be woven of cotton or man-made fibers.

China silk is a plain weave silk of various weights. This silk is the "hand" or touch that many people identify as silk. There are various weights of China silk from light, used for linings and many "washable silks" with the wrinkled look, to heavy for shirts and dresses.

Doupioni is reeled from double cocoons nested together. The threads are uneven and irregular. Italian Doupioni is the finest, followed by Chinese Doupioni and Indian Doupioni. Doupioni is also seen in man-made fibers such as polyester, acetate and referred to as Doupionini. Silk Doupioni is most often found in men's and women's fine suits and also dresses in lighter weight silk Doupioni.

Faille soft ribbed silk with wider ribs than seen in grosgrain ribbon. Slightly glossy.

Georgette sheer crepe silk, heavier than chiffon and with a crinkle surface.

Matelasse has raised woven designs, usually jacquard, with the appearance of puckered or quilted.

Noil is sportier in appearance and created by short fibers, often from the innermost part of the cocoon. Has the look of hopsack but much softer.

Organza is similar to cotton organdy except it is made with silk and is transparent.

Peau de Soie is a stout, soft silk with fine cross ribs. Looks slightly corded. Also called paduasoy.

Pongee is a plain woven, thin, naturally tan fabric that has a rough weave effect.

Poult de siue is sometimes called faille taffeta. It has heavy cross ribs.

Silk Shantung is a dupionni type of silk that comes from the Shantung Prov. of China.

Silk Broadcloth is a plain weave silk in various weights; crisper than china silk. Often used in shirting.

Silk linen has a nubby yarn in a plain weave. Weights range from light to heavy. It is different from Dupion in that the nubby runs both lengthwise and crosswise. The look of linen with the characteristics of linen.

Silk satin is a satin weave with a plain back.

Tussah silk (tussah means wild) is a plain weave silk fabric from "wild" silk worms. It has irregular thick and thin yarns creating uneven surface and color. Wild silkworms feed on leaves other than mulberry leaves.Tussah silk is similar to shantung, with silk from the wild. Color is often uneven; usually referred to as "raw" silk.

Silk is also available in other weaves such as velvet and corduroy.

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III.the serial numbers of Chinese silk fabrics

The serial numbers of silk fabric is three-figure. The first figure indicates the sorts of the raw materials.

1 represents mulberry silk, including the hand reeled silk, Shuangguang silk, the spun silk;

2 represents the synthetic fibre, including the polyamide fibre, the terylene,;

3 represents the natural synthetic fabric;

4 represents the tussore, including the spun tussore;

5 represents the rayon, including the mucilage glue, the acetate fibre;

6 represents the intertexture, including the filament intertexture, the filament and the short-staple fibre intertexture;

7 is different from 1 to 6, it represents the bedcover.

The second figure indicates the general category, such as spun, slub, crape, silk, shusu, brocade, ghatpot, gauze, yarn, ko-hemp cloth, flannelette, worsted, wool.

The third figure indicates the serial number of Silk standard.

The capital letter represents the producing area of the Silk. B represents Peking; C, Sichuan; D, Liaoning; E, Hubei; G, Guangdong; H, Zhejiang; J, Jiangxi; K, Jiangshu; M, Fujian; N, Guangxi; Q, Shanxi; S, Shanghai; T, Tianjing; V, He`nan; W, Anhui; X, Hu`nan; and so on. There are labels on the silks. You can tell the raw material and the producing area by reading the serial numbers on the label.








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